Magnificent Bastard

Saturday, October 21, 2017



Ask the MB: Is the Peacoat a Timeless Classic or Out of Style?

Ask the MB: Is the Peacoat a Timeless Classic or Out of Style?

Q: I recently bought a peacoat - dark navy, well fitted, none of those goofy epaulettes or anything like that. I say it's a timeless classic but my girlfriend says they're out of style. Who's right?
—Peter

A: Peter your GF is so spectacularly wrong we're gravely concerned about any sartorial advice you may have taken from her.

Would Tom Ford be asking $4,950 for his peacoat take if he thought they were out of style?

We're big fans too, because the garment adheres to at least 3 key MB principles:

1. Principle of Anglophilia
It originated in the British Royal Navy.

2. Principle of Archaism
It's been a standard part of the United States Navy uniform since 1881.

3. Principle of Organic Materials
The definitive Naval Clothing Factory peacoat is 100% wool, with corduroy-lined pockets (cotton).

You nailed a few of our peacoat requirements (i.e. navy, flair-less, slim fit), and hopefully our most important one: a Three Days of the Condor Collar. You need to be able to stand it up tall like Redford.

When it comes to peacoat collars, size does matter.

Style blog consensus favors the Billy Reid "Bond" version ($695; pictured upper left), but the anemic collar is in desperate need of growth hormone, and is a disqualifying feature. For others who might be in the peacoat market, first check the local military surplus, and if you're flush consider this gorgeous Maison Margiela option.

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Martinez

  • 2 parts Hayman's Old Tom Gin
  • 1 part sweet vermouth (Carpano Antica Formula or Dolin Rouge)
  • 1/4 part Luxardo Maraschino liqueur
  • 2 dashes Fee Brothers Whiskey Barrel Aged Bitters

Shake or swirl lightly, garnish with a lemon twist.


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